Madrid

Good food and drink are central to life in Madrid, and there’s no shortage of either anywhere in the city.

The bars are full of people having tapas along with a drink. Two of the most popular tapas are boquerones en vinagre (marinated anchovies) and empanada (pastry filled with tuna and tomato). Or you might find people sharing raciones, larger versions of tapas, such as plates of chorizo (sausage), jamón serrano (cured ham), tortilla de patata (potato omelette) and champiñones con ajos y jamón (mushrooms with garlic and ham). Bars usually have both tapas and raciones menus to choose from.

Tapas have an interesting history dating back to the 13th century when stagecoach drivers used to stop off in taverns to take a break and have a glass of wine after an exhausting journey transporting merchandise. They would get so drunk and become such a menace on the highways that the government introduced a law forcing them to eat something while they drank. They would usually be given a piece of bread and ham placed on top of their glass or jar. These tapas (tops or lids) became a sensible and healthy custom that continues today.

Spaniards in general, and the people of Madrid in particular, are proud not to be bound by the rigid timetables that other nationalities follow. They’re happy to sit down to a three-course lunch with wine and coffee at three o'clock in the afternoon before returning to work. Visitors are also often surprised, and a little alarmed, at the sight of everyone in the bar throwing used toothpicks, rolled-up napkins, cigarette ends, peanut shells and prawn heads onto the floor. No Spaniard will be offended at seeing a bar full of rubbish, but that custom, like hanging a leg of ham from the ceiling to slice jamón ibérico from, sometimes has a profound impact – and not a very pleasant one – on the visitor.

The area around Plaza de Santa Ana is a popular place to tapear (have tapas in one or more places). The Cervecería Alemana is located here and it’s usually full of tourists. The Plaza de la Cebada has lots of good tapas bars as well like El Almendro. Plaza de Alonso Martínez and Calle Conde Duque are both recommended for a tapas crawl. The Moncloa and Cristo Rey neighbourhoods, Calle Arenal and Calle Mayor all have their fair share of tapas bars as well. La Dolores is at the end of Calle Huertas just before it joins the Paseo del Prado and offers a great range of delicious tapas. There are similar bars on the same street that are just as good.

After you’ve toured a few bars and tried their tapas, it’s time for lunch or dinner. You’ll find the best local dishes in Casa Lucio, La Bola Taberna and Botín near the Plaza Mayor. The Madrid speciality is cocido madrileño, a soup cum stew with noodles, chickpeas, meat and vegetables. It’s perfect for a cold winter afternoon. Another Madrid favourite is callos madrileños, tripe with chickpeas, chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage) and bacon fat in a slightly spicy sauce. The best callos is served in Botillería Maxi on Calle Cava Alta and the best wines to accompany it are reds from Rioja and Ribera del Duero, although wines from the